Roof Installation Barrie | A DIY Article

Roof installation Barrie

Roofing Installation explained

I want to just show you how to basically get started on a roof Installation Barrie project, so this article is going to deal with getting the underlay started, which, in our case we’re using a grip guard or ice and water protection, whichever one you prefer, as well as Getting the starter strip and the first row of shingles going so we’ve obviously stripped the roof off already.

Prepping the Roof for a New Roof

Please see our article dealing with stripping shingles and we’ve gone around and made sure all the nails are pounded down and that there’s nothing protruding. All the boards are tight and solid, there’s no rot, so we’ve basically got the roof.

Ready to Start The Roof Repair

All prepared we’re ready to shingle, depending on your type of shingles, that you’re using some manufacturers, don’t recommend shingling over a roof that has individual boards with spaces like this, they may recommend that you sheet the entire roof right over the top of this. Well, you either rip this off and reseed it or sheet over this with 7/16 or three-eighths plywood. In this case, I’m not really too worried about it. The space is very minimal and I’ve already done the other side of this roof four or five years ago, and there haven’t been any problems so but just double-check with your manufacturer. They may void your warranty. So just be aware of that, if you decide to go ahead, the way that I am without sheathing it that you may void your warranty, so, okay, so the roof is prepped.

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We’Ve got some of the ice guards rolled out so that we’re just over in this corner ready to go basically what we want to do for that before we get started, are we want to install a drip edge on this edge? Now I’m are using the existing one here, just because it was in good shape if you’re adding a new one. Basically, all you want to do is go along the eave. Add your roof.

Roof Repair includes Drip Edge.

With this aluminum drip edge, whatever colour you decide to choose and just install it with a few shingle nails holding it down. Okay, no rocket science; there just get it on there. Don’t worry about you need it up that edge you up the rake end, but we aren’t going to worry about that rate at this stage I’ll get to that a little bit further down. Okay. So once we have that, we want to then measure our grip guard material and at each end of the roof. I want to measure up measurement in regards to the width, your grip guard so that we can snap a straight line to get the grip guard running straight.

Roof Repair Needs Grip Guard.

Your eave here probably isn’t straight okay, you want your grip guard to be on to this metal for sure I try not to have it hanging over because it just looks bad the shingles we will hangover, but the grip guard. I don’t so just make sure that the grip guard is going to seal onto this metal by at least an inch when you determine the height of that line. Okay, so snap, that line is a straight lot guide. Get your grip guard up there roll your grip guard out in relation to that line. Now the grip guard. Basically, it’s eve protection, and so this, in this case, it’s helping for ice dams and that sort of thing now, depending on where, where in the world you are, that might not be an issue for you. You might be able to just use 15-pound roofing felt for the whole roof in this area.

Barrie Ontario Roof Installations need Ice Guard

There’s an issue with possible ice, damming and, and that’s a whole different thing. I’m not going to go too into the explanation of that, but basically, it’s just water and snow freezing and melting and freezing and melting and working its way back up the roofing material. So this is just extra layer protection to prevent that from getting in the house. In my area, here, this edge of that material needs to be 12 inches inside the exterior wall below so actually it would be inside the house line and because we’re a little bit lower slope here, we’re actually going to do a second roll to get us 24 Inches inside of that wall, okay, so basically, we’ve got about a 12, a 24-inch overhang on our roof here.

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So my wall inside the house, the exterior wall, is somewhere under this area, so we’re just trying to be 12 inches inside of that and in my case 24, so we’re going to use the second roll of this once we get going okay, so this material. It’S you know, got the same kind of makeup as a shingle, but it’s got this backing on the back that you can see here that we peel off as we go to help it stick down once the Sun gets on there. For a couple of days, it’ll just blow it bond it right down to the plywood or the boards that you have here for your roof. So so I’m going to roll this out and I’ll just use the odd. I got my stapler we’re going to use the odd staple in it just to roughly hold it in place until it bonds down. Obviously, once we add roofing over it, it’s all that’s going to hold it down to this material, also as you apply roofing material over it and obviously punctures it full of a few holes. It kind of closes right up around those nails, just in case somebody’s wondering about what. Why bother, if we’re just going to punch it full of a thousand holes, but it does kind of self-seal itself, so so I’m just going to roll this out a little bit at a time here. I’ve got my line up here. I know you can’t see that I’m trying to keep this straight, keep as many wrinkles out of it. As I can.

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We’Ve got this backing started. It’S basically split in the middle, so you’ve got a top edge and a back edge to kind of peel out. One other thing that I just you might notice me look over my shoulder always be aware of where the edge of the roof is. So you don’t fall off. You just always got to be leery of that. Okay, so we’re kind of getting that down. It was hotter today that would seal down quite well right away, we’re just putting a few staples up in this edge just to kind of tack it there it’s a little breezy today. I don’t want the wind to rip it off on us, I’m just going to peel that out all the way and I’ll come back and get the bottom edge.

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If you get a little bit off this line, don’t be too worried about it, but try to stay as close as you can to it, which is just help. Everything stays nice and straight, look back, make sure you don’t have a whole bunch of wrinkles. Those wrinkles will just kind of show right through the shingles, even once you’re finished if it’s really wrinkled bad, get rid of that now on the bottom, we’ve got the same thing I mentioned about pounding all the nails down in the roof early on in the article And part of it is when you’re pulling that plastic out they get snagged on any that are sticking up. So if you can kind of get them down,

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I’ve actually got feels like they got something under there got an old nail under there. Okay, so we just had an old nail that popped out underneath that membrane. Stick it down I’m going to throw a few staples along this end here as well: okay, just to keep the wind from getting under it, not too worried about down here, it’s going to stick down to that metal pretty quickly. Once the sun comes around and we’ll be getting a starter roll on there as well anyways, okay, so we’ve got that started down, and the next thing you want to do is basically to get started with the shingling actually before I start that I’m going to talk About this drip edge on the side of the roof, so we’ve got a gable roof here, so we need a piece of this drip edge.

Roofing Barrie Materials for Roof Replacement

This is the material right here: okay, you’ll notice, I’m using two different ones. I’ve got a little bit different one here that I can get in my area. You may not be able to get that style, so you might be using this all the way around. That’S fine! Now, as we progress up this roof, I’ve already talked that I’m going to do another roll of the ice-barrier eye shield up here and then from that point on. In my area, I’ve got to use two layers of 15-pound roofing felt on the entire roof.

Roofing Felt For the Best Quality Job

Under the shingles okay along these edges, the gable ends. I actually want this to be on top of that felt on top of this as well, so that, if you can imagine if this is your side of your roof, okay, this roof goes out there. If water or snow or anything is driving this way and gets actually between this and your shingles, it can run under your shingle, come out here and actually get on to the felt paper or the whatever you got for underlayment and it’ll run to the bottom Of the roof, without going into the wood or soaking into the wood? Okay, if you had this underneath if this was under that under your underlayment, the rain and that could just go right between them and right into your attic or whatever do some damage so so on the ends.

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You want this to be over the top of all your underlayment down here. We’Ve got it underneath because water is rolling down and it’s then it’s onto here and oh it into the gutters, so okay, so two different ways to do that now because of the wind today I can’t roll this whole roof out with paper taffeta’s just going to Rip off before I get it shingled. So what I’m going to do?

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I’m going to actually leave this off until we get a little bit of the shingle started, and then I can once the shingles are over here on this edge I’ll just come and tuck it. Underneath there and get it started, and then you know once we get a little bit further, it’s just because it’s such a long length, if I, if I just tack it down here and leave it hanging up there, the winds going to rip it off in this Crazy country today, okay, so you will see at some point in my other article showing installing, like actually shingling the roof, you’re going to see that piece on there and hopefully I’ll remember to mention about it again.

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So, okay, now to get the roof started. We’Ve got our underlayment perfect we’re good. On that end. What we’re going to do this is the shingle we’re using we’re using a laminated architectural shingle as our actual finished shingle. So you can see, we’ve got some doubled up areas here. When these are all done, it looks really good. It looks like you know, a shake roof or you know a nicer style roof, instead just a three-tab or interlocking which most areas and can’t get anymore but anyway.

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This is just a normal three-tab here. So this is basically your other option. It’S three-tab rooms like that now, with the three tabs or architecture, all you need to start with a starter strip. What that is is basically just an extra layer of shingles right at the edge of the roof. Okay, over top of your underlayment, you can buy a starter strip from your different shingle companies.

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Really all you need to do is buy a pack of three-tab, shingles the same colour as what you’re using for your main shingles take the shingle normally. This is how it would be on the roof turn it half a turn. This way use this as your starter strip. Okay, so we’ll put this on. Our first row of shingles will line up completely with it, and what that does is it just gives us a double layer of protection right here, plus the underlayment okay, so just cheaper to buy a three-tab and do it that way, you’re still getting the same.

The First Row of Roofing Material sets the Quality of the Replacement

Still getting the same thing now to get that started, we want to have a nice straight line, just like we did with the underlayment. So we’re going to do the same thing. We’Re going to measure the shingle we’re going to say where we’re going to measure this one here. This is the three-tab: shingle we’re going to use for the starter strip and I’m just measuring the width of it and what I want when it’s all said and done is ideally I’d like it to hang over about a quarter-inch past the drip cap. Okay, so that means whatever this measurement is, which I think is thirteen and a quarter.

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We actually want to line about thirteen inches up from the corner that drip edge to follow to get us nice and Street and that’ll give us our quarter inch overhang. Some people, like more, I wouldn’t go any less than a quarter inch on your overhang depending on how crooked your roof is. You may not. You know some spots that might not hang over quite that much so this fairly street. So, as I said, I’m going to mark my measurement up here on this end and that end, then I’m going to hand my partner there, the chalk line we’re going to snap that line so that we can get started here. Okay, so we’ve got our mark out here. I’m going to roll out the chalk line.

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Give that to my helper he’s going to go all the way to the other end of the roof, and we’ve got a markdown there corresponding to the same thing. Are you making out you’re good there, okay and I’m going to stretch this out and get a nice, nice and taunt? So we get a nice true line just like that? Okay, so that’s our guideline. Basically, so we can hopefully get a nice straight start to this shingle job. I usually like to use that do the starter strip just by hand nailing and dragging the holes along and a lot of times, you don’t have the luxury of having a scaffold to work off right here, so you’re working up on the roof. You know basically, hang over the edge nailing upside down the nice thing, with the scaffold that we set up. It does a couple of different things: that’s it’s mainly for the camera guy to have a decent area to shoot from, but it also is a bit of fall protection so that we don’t have to be harnessed off. We have to be very careful still out at the outer edges, so we probably should be harnessed off still there, but this gives us the fall protection. We need on this site. Okay, so I’m going to get rid of my stapler. Okay, so remember, I said we’re going to turn that one upside down just like it is here now and the same thing like like I said we want to hang off a quarter inch on this edge, which are our line, will give us there. We also want to hang off about that same amount or even half an inch on the far end, so just want to take the time to get started out here correctly, and I can see that this is already a little bit. I think we’re going to be alright, it’s a little goofy here because this drift badge is kind of bent out of shape to match up. On top of this gutter guard. Okay, so mark a line the top the shingle up there on there and we’re going to nail up I’m going to stay away from this end. So I can get that piece in we’re going to nail about halfway up the shingle, I’m going to put five nails in this one. I would normally have gone out there and I’ll be able to add it once I have that trim work in there. Okay, so you just want to keep going along all the way along the length of the roof, putting the starter strip down. Don’T worry too much about what’s going on down here, we’re worried about this line. We have up here so that we get started out nice and straight, but the shingles in tight to each other. A few nails out of here. You may want to wear safety glasses just depending on how crazy your nailing, okay I’ll, do one more just to get a little way along here and you could use an air nailer for this. I will for the main part of the roof, but like I said I just like to have nailing to get started here. It’S just one less thing in your way. Okay, so you go all the way along the roof, cut it off with your whatever you decide you wanna for overhang down there, and then the other part of getting started is getting your first actual course of the finished shingles on the roof. Now, with this particular shingle, we want to be nailing, there’s a doubled-up section here. We don’t want to be nailing above this tar strip up here, otherwise, they’re not going to hold for the wind load that they’re supposed to. We need to basically nail right along with that tar strip and that’ll be in the double layer of the shingle. You can kind of see there’s a line here. You don’t want to have any or nails below that because then they’re going to be exposed. So there’s kind of you got you to know: maybe three-quarters of an inch area there to nail into, and you want to be fairly precise with that now we’re starting with a full-length shingle here on this very first roll, we’re flushing it up really just Flushing it up to the starter strip that we put on all the way along narrow, get down there and out there, and these particular ones they for my winds and roof slope and everything they recommend six nails in this one, I’m staying back from the end. So we can put that trim in again after I’m nailing rate at the tar strip. So I came in about an inch or I would be coming in about an inch from each end and then space the other four nails out within the shingle. Okay, just like that, so for this role, we want to just do that same thing, all the way along right on top of this one, that we did I’ll do one more here. The subsequent rows after this we’ll deal with in the next article so you’ll need to look for that. So we’re just budding the shingle together coming in about an inch into the tar strip nail length if you’re using an air nailer one inch and eighth nails are more than enough with the air nailer for the main body of the roof. The ridge cap is a little different you’re going to need longer nails to get through all the layers. You have we’ll talk about that in the other article too, but if you anything your hand nailing, and you should, even if your air nailing, you should have some hand nails around as well, because you’re going to need them, you could use the one-inch nails, but I Wouldn’T recommend it because you’re just going to beat your fingers to death, so I like to use about an inch and a half nail gives you lots of room to get your fingers on it. Get the nail started without smashing your finger with the hammer. So so we just work along like that, and really the only concern here to watch for is that you’re not going to end up with this seam in this layer lining right up with the seam and the one below try to stay at least three or four inches offset, these two shingles are different lengths, so I didn’t have to cut one or the other to get started to make that happen, so it should work out right to the end of the roof, but just be aware of that, as you go, my Forgetting anything, I don’t think so. I think that pretty much handles it. So, like said in the next article you’re going to see us do more with this roof as we get up higher we’re going to have some vents to go around ridge cap, all that kind of stuff we’re going to deal with that moulding down there as well. So so, hopefully, this gave you some a good idea on how to get started on your roofing Barrie project, and you know we always enjoy when people come to the forum and let us know how their project turned out after they’ve used our article for some help or You know maybe get stumped at one certain thing we didn’t cover it or you didn’t quite understand what I was saying come to the forum post, your question up and I’ll be sure to answer you as soon as I can so other than that you want to get a little sicker of me, you can follow me on Facebook, Twitter. You can check out our Patreon campaign, all that kind of fun stuff and just stay in touch with us and also any of the article bars as you watch and you like them. Click the thumbs up button, not a hope, so thanks a lot

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